Visiting an Iban longhouse in Sarawak, MY 10/2007

Shooting up the Pelagus rapids

Iban people and their life today

Longhouse: the communal area

Chitchatting in front of a home

Nah, not an Iban

Giggling kids

Under big hats

1) The headman 'Tuah Rumah'

2) Tuak welcoming ceremony

The armory behind the house

Pigjaws for BBQ

The longhouse from Rejang river

THE IBAN In Sarawak, the dominant tribal groups are the Dayak. Tribal people live in longhouses. There are the Iban (Sea Dayak), and the Bidayuh (Land Dayak). All of Malaysia's tribal people feel a strong spiritual connection to the rainforest. The Iban grow rice and fruit, and hunt and fish. Reputed to be the most formidable HEADHUNTERS on the island of Borneo, the Ibans of today are a generous, hospitable and placid people. The Iban is a friendly and hospitable tribe. The majority of Sarawak Ibans, especially in the lowlands, are living mostly in longhouses along the main rivers and their tributaries. They are Christians, but they still maintain their strong cultural identity and heritage. 2) The Ibans are also famous for their tuak, a sweet rice wine, which is served during big celebrations and festive occasions.

LONGHOUSE Whenever you visit a longhouse, at the entrance you will be given a glass of tuak for warm welcoming and never say no, because if you resist you are not respecting their kind offer. Each longhouse community usually has a core group of founding members, related cognatically, who occupy the center of the house. Membership in the house is usually through relations with one or more of these families. There are two important longhouse officials. The tuah burong is an augur, who reads the omens, especially from birds, before all important events and is important events and is generally responsible for the ritual wellbeing of the longhouse. 1) The tuah rumah is the administrator and custodian of adat, Iban customary law, and the arbiter in community conflicts.

FESTIVALS Iban have many festivals called 'Gawai'. There are the 'Gawai Kenyalang' (hornbill festival), 'Gawai Antu' (festival for the dead) and 'Gawai Dayak' (harvesting festival). During such festivals, besides the customary observance of ritual, there is usually much drinking of tuak, much merriment and dancing called 'NGAJAT' and displays of elaborate traditional costumes.

BELIEVS Iban religion revolves around augury, omens, and rice. There are a great number of gods and spirits, with Petara at the top. Ancestor worship is important, but the assurance of a good rice crop is the principal function of the religion. Rice is believed to have a soul, and it must be treated respectfully and propitiated in order to provide a good yield. In a number of areas, Christianity has been adopted in addition to, rather than in place of, the old faith.

TRADITIONS & POLITICS The institution of pejalai (bejalah), in which young men travel to distant areas to gain wealth and experience, is an old and important part of Iban life. To return with valuable items is the object of the trip, and his numerous TATTOOS TESITFY to a man's travels. Iban women do not travel, and their lack of contact with the outside world has made them and their craft styles more conservative. Women are not, however, of a lower status. Households heads are women as often as they are men, and women have traditionally played an equal role in public meetings. While the two principal offices in the longhouse are limited to men, the rights of men and women are equal in matters of property and inheritance. Nowadays traditions are dying. The ancient crafts of making boats, building longhouses, weaving, dancing, tattooing, and native art are now dying fast. Even the whole oral tradition of telling tales and myths is disappearing.

TUAK RECIPE It is a drink for all occassions, be it Gawai, weddings or entertaining visitors. Preparation: Glutinous rice is cooked and left to cool in a 'tapan' or any flat utensils. For every 5 Kg of glutinous rice you will need 5 kg of round 'ragi' (yeast) and 5 pieces of thin slice ragi. (round ragi for bitterness, slice ragi for sweetness). The yeast are pounded into powder and mixed with the rice after it has cool. This mixture is then left to ferment in any clean container (jar) for a week or so. Cool, boiled water plus sugar (syrup) is added to this mixture. (10 kg sugar for 20 liters of water) Depending on your taste, your tuak is now ready. if you prefer you can wait another week. The longer you keep your tuak the more portent it will be.

my route to the Iban

destination map

> read in Linklater`s "Wild unter Wilden"

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